Luc Houle

Egypt is a country where history and modernity collide in the most fascinating ways, and nowhere is this more evident than in Alexandria and Cairo. Each city has its own distinct rhythm, shaped by centuries of conquests, culture, and daily life unfolding against the backdrop of some of the world’s most storied landmarks.

Alexandria, once the intellectual powerhouse of the ancient world, now feels like a shell of its former glory. The city bears the weight of neglect, with crumbling buildings and littered streets standing in stark contrast to its storied past. Yet, amid the decay, glimpses of beauty remain. The Corniche, stretching along the Mediterranean, still offers breathtaking views of the sea, a reminder of the city's former grandeur.

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a modern tribute to the legendary ancient library, stands as a beacon of knowledge, even as the city around it fades. The Montaza Palace gardens offer a serene escape, their manicured greenery a stark departure from the city’s urban weariness. A trip to Abu Qir proved to be a highlight, where the freshest red mullet, grilled to perfection, left an unforgettable impression. While modern Alexandria struggles, its rich history and coastal charm still manage to captivate.

In contrast, Cairo is a whirlwind of sensory overload—chaotic, loud, and utterly captivating. The pyramids of Giza rise defiantly against the encroaching skyline, their ancient stones absorbing the smog and chatter of a city that never stops moving. The Egyptian Museum, while filled with relics of unimaginable significance, felt disorganized and somewhat underwhelming.

But Cairo’s soul is found in its streets: in the labyrinthine alleyways of Khan El Khalili, where merchants haggle over brass lamps and spices, and in the peaceful respite of Al-Azhar Park, an oasis amid the urban frenzy. The elegance of the Marriott Mena House offered a refined contrast to the city's madness, while the hotel's rooftop provided an unforgettable sight—the pyramids standing silently in the distance, illuminated by the fading sun.

One constant throughout Egypt is the omnipresence of the military. Checkpoints are frequent, and armed guards are a routine sight, a reminder that the country operates under an unyielding grip of authority. It is a place of stark contradictions—where ancient wonders stand beside modern struggles, where grandeur meets decay, and where chaos finds pockets of tranquility. Egypt’s great cities leave an indelible mark, their stories etched not just in monuments but in the very air you breathe.